Munsiyari: The Snow Field of Kumaon

Munsiyari (2,300m) the subdivision headquarters of Pithoragarh district in the hill state of Uttarakhand, India. In Tibetan language ‘Mun’ means snowflakes and ‘Piyari’ means field. So the name Munsiyari refers to ‘snow-field’. The months of November to April of the year Munsiyari becomes a snowfield and remains covered by layers of snow. The distance of Munsiyari via Chaukori-Thal-Tejam-Birthi-Kalamunitop is 98Kms.On the way to Munsiyari, Birthi is a famous tourist destination. A slender uphill path on the left side of the road will lead you to the beautiful Birthi waterfalls.

Birthi Falls

On the banks of river Goriganga, the eastern sky of Munsiyari is proudly showing its prime attraction- the ‘Panchachuli’ peaks. It is really a picturesque beauty that will be preserved in one's memory forever. During sunrise and sunset the five peaks of Panchachuli change their colour in every hour. ‘Pancha’ means five and ‘Chuli’ means chimney. According to Indian Mythology, it is said that Draupadi the wife of Pancha Pandavs of Mahabharat cooked their last meal on these peaks before proceeding to Mahaprasthan and hence the name Panchachuli.

Gori Ganga

Panchachuli on the horizon of Munsiyari

Places to see:

Himalayan Viewpoints:

There are two famous viewpoints in Munsiyari if you want to see Panchachuli a bit closely. One is located near Indo-Tibetan police camp and another is Nanda Devi temple. The latter is the best viewpoint of ethereal natural beauty. The simple white coloured temple on green grass carpet is like a bright pearl in the lap of beautiful mountains. From the temple premises, you will get a closer view of Panchachuli on the horizon. The tranquil beauty of nature will soothe your eyes and calms your soul. The ringing of the temple bell, sweet chirping of unknown hilly birds and majestic view of the Himalayan range fills your heart with peace and happiness. From this place, you will also have a glance at Goriganga River at a far distance.

Panchachuli from Nanda Devi Temple

Nanda Devi Temple Premises

Tribal Heritage Museum:

This is a small cultural private museum established in the year 2000. This museum was established by Dr. Sher Singh Pangtey known as Masterji to local people. The purpose of this heritage museum is to preserve lost Bhutia Culture. You will find jewelry made up of leopard nails, cooking pots, hookahs, musical instruments, stones scribed with Buddhist sermons trade treaties from China and Tibet, maps and local spices and local handicrafts.

Hours: 10:00AM to 5:00PM everyday

Entry Fees: 10/-

Heritage Tribal Museum

From here you can go to Sarmoli market. This market is for local spices, woolen garments and carpets.

Trek Routes:

Munsiyari is the starting point of a number of trek routes. A trek route leads to Milam and Ralam Glacier. Thamrikund (pond on the Betuli Dhar Ridge) is 2.5kms away from Kalamunitop. Besides this another small trek route will take you to Khalia top. Here the beauty of Panchachuli will mesmerize you.

Five peaks of Panchchuli

Popular day trip destinations:

You can hire a car and have a visit to Darakot (12kms) and Madkot (22kms) villages. In Darkot village you will get to shop some blankets, shawls and winter garments knitted by local women from sheep wool. there is a Hotspring near Madkot Village.

Best Time to Visit: 

March to May and August to October

How to Reach:

Kathgodam is the gateway to Kumaon.

By Air: 

Take a flight to Delhi. Take any suitable train to Kathgodam. List of rains to Kathgodam from Delhi:

New Delhi Kathgodam Shatabdi express

Ranikhet express

Uttaranchal Sampark Kranti Express

By Train: (from Kolkata)

Howrah-Lalkuan Express (Weekly, Friday only)

Bagh Express

Both trains will take you to Kathgodam.

By car Kathgodam to Nainital is 35kms. Then follow the Nainital-Mukteshwar-Chaukori rout. The total journey time is 6hours. From Chaukori via Thal-Tejam-Birthi-Kalamunitop reach Munsiyari.

Car rent:

Maruti Alto: Rs. 2,200/ day

WagonR: Rs.2, 400/day

Sumo, Bolero, Max: Rs. 2, 600/day

The car rent varies according to season and price of fuel.

Where to Stay:

Kumaon Mandal Vikash Nigam Tourist Rest House

Phone: 05961-222339

With breakfast room tariff:

Super Delux DBR: 1429/-

Executive DBR: 1786/-

Royal DBR: 2009/-

Pandey Lodge:

Phone: 09411130373

Tariff: 700-1500/-

Bramha Kamal:

Best for Bengali food.

Phone: 09756086119

Tariff: 700-1500/-

Hotel Milam Inn:

Phone: 9830152169

Tariff: 2800-3200/-

Leela Mountain View:

Phone: 9830152169

Tariff: 2500-4000/-

The impulse to travel is one of the hopeful symptoms of life.... Agnes Repplier

Photo Credit: Dr. Kaustav Chakraborty
 

Foodgasm In Darjeeling

Darjeeling is LOVE. Whenever we cross ‘Tung-Sonada-Ghum’ and have a glimpse of ‘Queen of the Hills’ our extravagant soul becomes nostalgic. Darjeeling is nostalgia for every Bong. Today I’m not going to discuss the beautiful places we can see in Darjeeling… This is about gastronomic interest of tourists and travellers.  The hill station is famous for British breakfast, Tibetan, Chinese and Nepali cuisines. Bengali food is now also included in the menu. Darjeeling has a vast collection of vintage restaurants and new restaurants are also being added to the list. Glenary’s, Keventers and Kunga are now synonymous to Darjeeling. The Park Restaurant is also now securing its place in Darjeeling food map…

Kanchenjunga from Glenary's, Darjeeling

Here we go…

1. Glenary’s:

Glenary’s is a landmark of Darjeeling. It is a gastronomic delight to every tourist. The joint is located at Nehru Road very near to Mall.

In the very beginning the restaurant was named as ‘Vado’ by its Italian owner. Later it was named as ‘Pliva’. A.T. Edward, a Darjeeling local was a manager of this place. His family later brought this place and renovated the place and started the restaurant in new manner. Edward changed the name to Glenary’s.

Glenary’s serves the best breakfast in Darjeeling. The two storied building has its bakery on the ground floor. The aroma of freshly baked cakes and muffins is divine. The seating arrangement is at an open terrace. You can enjoy your breakfast while having a nice view of Darjeeling town. If you are lucky enough you can have a magnificent view of Kanchenjunga from your breakfast table.

Sandwiches, burgers, pies, pastries, pizzas, cakes and fresh breads and loaves are their famous items. Darjeeling tea, coffee and marzipans are must tries in Glenary’s and don’t forget to take some Glenary,s chocolate back home.In addition to this they have a multi cuisine restaurant on the top floor and a buzz bar in the basement.

Timing: 7:30AM- 8:00PM
Pocket Pinch: 400/person

2. Keventers:

This place is also a landmark in Darjeeling, founded by Edward Keventers in the year 1911. They serve authentic English breakfast. Keventers is located at Nehru Road that leads to Chowrasta Mall.

The 100 years old eatery serves best English breakfast, tea and snacks in this hill town. They have a narrow two storied building. The ground floor is bakery and take away counter. If you climb the narrow wooden stairs you will reach their seating area. The way to upstairs is decorated with pictures of legendary films, which were shoot in this place. Among them Satyajit Ray’s ‘Kanchenjunga’ and Anurag Basu’s ‘Barfi’ is much known to us.

The seating area is divided into two sections: an indoor seating area with few seats and an outdoor open terrace seating area. If you are lucky enough to secure a seat in the outdoor area (as there are always long queues during breakfast hours) you will have a view of mountains and famous Clock Tower of Darjeeling.

Here you can get varieties of sandwiches, burgers and various meats and snacks items. Chicken, pork and cheese filled meat loaf sandwiches, ham and bacon burgers, hot dogs, salami, fried bacons and eggs are their signature dishes. For beverages hot chocolate is a must try. Darjeeling tea, coffee, chocolate shakes are also very famous here.

Timing: 7:30AM- 7:30PM
Pocket Pinch: 350/person

3. Kunga:

The third famous eatery in Darjeeling is Kunga. It is famous for Chinese and Tibetan delicacies. Kunga is a budget restaurant located in Dekeling Hotel building on Gandhi Road next to the Taxi stand.

The two decades old restaurant is run by a Tibetan Buddhist family. The place serves best thenthuks, bhakthuks and other kinds of local noodles. Wonton soup is their signature dish.

Tibetan scrolls and motifs on wood paneled walls create a great ambience. It is a cozy place to have your diner. The ambience is friendly and casual. Kunga is famous for steaming hot good quality of food which is pocket friendly and large in quantity.

Timing: 8:00AM- 9:00PM
Pocket Pinch: 200/person

The Park Restaurant:

The Park is comparatively a newer addition to Darjeeling Yum Street. It is very famous for delicious Thai cuisines. The Park is located near Clock Tower opposite to State Bank of India Building on Laden La Road.

The restaurant was established in the year 1993. They are famous for great Thai cuisines as well as Chinese and Indian. The restaurant is located at upper floor of a two storied building. The dining room is spacious and well decorated. As you enter the restaurant you will see nice décor and a well stocked bar. The artificial fire place and Chinese masks on the walls are very impressive. On the right side you will find two window side tables from where you can have nice views.

Their Thai cuisine is best in the town. Some mouth watering dishes are tom yam soup, flat rice noodles, red curry, Thai salad etc. Among Chinese dishes chilli prawn, chilli chicken, chicken with sweet basil, fried rice and noodles are really nice. Their varieties of cocktails are also very attractive. The park is really a value for money fine dining restaurant.

Timing: 10:00AM- 10:00PM
Pocket Pinch: 400/person

In addition to above mentioned places you will find many street food joints, Bengali and Nepali cuisine restaurants.

Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.......... Anita Desai

Photo Credit: Dr. Kaustav Chakraborty